Please read these instruction throughly to prevent installation errors.

Our experience has shown virtually all problems stem from faulty installation, if you have questions regarding this process please do not hesitate to contact us.

Note:  These instructions are for the installation of Autostream Stainless Feathering propellers only .



Before you dis-assemble the propeller you will need to note: what is the leading & trailing edges of the blades when in the “feathered” position;

(i.e., when blades align fore & aft along the center line of the boat.)


Note how freely the blades rotate.

The above points # 1 & # 2 must be the same after installing unit on shaft.

Parts listed below are included with the purchase of the propeller

Tools / parts required
Hex Key – 6mm
Grease - Valvoline Val Plex M grease or equivalent marine-use lubricant
Loctite – grade 262 “red”
Shaft/propeller Nut
Hex Key -5mm A/F (for pitch adjustment)
Box-end Wrench -17mm A/F (or may use 11/16” for pitch adjustment)

Additional parts Incuded:  (1) zinc anode, (4) “O” Rings, and lockwire  (these are parts are not necessary for installation)


Parts listed below are NOT included with the purchase of the propeller

Additional Tools / parts required 

Key – stainless steel
Grease gun
Hammer – soft face/rubber
Socket Wrench ½” square
Wrench 9/16" open-end (to remove zinc tail cone)

Dismantling propeller  

Remove the (6) cap head screws using the 6mm hex key supplied.


Rotate the propeller blades to the “feathered” position.  Support the blade assembly and grasp the forward portion of the propeller body in one hand and using a soft face hammer, gently tap the leading edge of the blades to separate the propeller blade assembly from the body.


Follow the steps 4, 5, & 6 only if the taper is not already machined. Otherwise go to step 7.


To remove the main gear for boring and keying, loosen the locknuts on the pitch adjusting screws sufficiently to allow backing-out of the pitch adjusting screws. Back-out the screws about ¼”.  Push the gear through from the forward end of the body dislodging the “O” ring.  Remove the delrin thrust ring/bearing.  Refer to “machining the taper” Information which follows these instructions.

Re-assembling propeller  

When re-assembling, ensure parts are clean and greased.  The gear must rotate freely after assembly.


Screw pitch adjustment screws back to their original settings and lock up the nuts.

Make sure the “O” ring seal on the forward end of the main gear is greased and in place.

IMPORTANT – follow installation steps 8 to 12 precisely.

NOTE -   With the hub in place on the shaft, the end of the thread section must not be less than ¾” from the end of the gear face – refer to step 9.


Check that the taper is matching correctly by gently sliding the main body and gear assembly onto the shaft without the key in place.  Feel for any mis-match of the tapers.  Any mis-match must be rectified before proceeding.  Mark the propeller shaft with a felt tip pen or similar at the forward end of the propeller hub.
The end of the thread section of the propeller shaft must not be less than ¾” from the gear of the hub when it is correctly positioned on shaft taper.
Check that the propeller nut screws on freely and that the thread length is not too long to allow the nut to tighten against the propeller hub.  Do not force the nut. Any damaged threads must be rectified.  Forcing a stainless steel nut may result in the nut seizing onto the shaft, which is difficult to rectify.
Remove the propeller hub and fit the key to the shaft and refit the propeller hub assembly to the shaft.  The hub must go up to the mark on the shaft.   If not the key is fouling and will have to be machined correctly.  The most common problem is the key sitting too high out of the shaft.  Check that the key is sitting fully into the shaft keyway, then machine or file the key to the correct height.  A stainless key is recommended; most “bronze” keys are actually common brass and can easily corrode away.

Ensure the threads of the propeller shaft and nut are clean and dry.  Wire brush threads to remove any paint or old Loctite and clean with a solvent cleaner. Refer to the instructions on the Loctite pack.  Apply 3 to 5 drops of Loctite to the shaft thread and the thread in the propeller nut as stated on the tag attached to the nut.  Check that ‘O’ring at the forward end of propeller hub is still in place and fit the hub to the shaft.  Fit the nut and tighten to the torque noted on the tag using a ½”square drive socket wrench.


Check that the propeller body still rotates freely from pitch stop to pitch stop,

i.e., forward to reverse.


Align the appropriate “R” or “L” mark on the body to the alignment mark on the forward end of the main gear. The “R” alignment is for a Right Hand rotation propeller (clockwise when viewed from the stern looking ahead). The “L” alignment is for a Left Hand rotation propeller.

Prepare the (6) cap head screws for assembly by applying a little grease to the threads and underside of the cap heads.  With the blades in the feathered align the number 1 on the body and blade assembly and fit (6) cap head screws and tighten lightly.
Check that when all blades are in the feathered position the alignment mark on the forward end of the propeller hub and the appropriate R or L marks are still aligned.
Check that the blades rotate freely from the forward stop to the reverse stop. If movement is not free then the propeller must be dismantled and checked for the reason. When all is correct, tighten the (6) cap head screws to (15 ft/lbs.) torque and fit the lockwires.
Grease the propeller with Valvoline Val Plex M or equivalent through the grease nipple (zerk fitting) at the end of the anode until grease appears at the blade journals or forward end of the propeller hub.



Imperial Threads
Metric Threads
5/8” dia.
50 ft/lb
M16 – 65 Nm
3/4” dia.
75 ft/lbs
M20 – 100 Nm
7/8” dia.
100 ft/lbs
M22 – 115 Nm
1" dia.
100 ft/lbs
M24 – 135 Nm

This will become a link to "machining the taper" information

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